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by Susana Hurlich, Havana, 21 May 1998
The first question asked by all Haitians who visit Cuba from outside the country is
about Guantanamo, which has been historically the most important region of the country for
Haitian residents and descendants - that is, for Creole language and culture. Although no
census of Haitians (residents or descendants) in Cuba has been done to date, in the 1980's
a group of sociologists from Guantanamo did a study on genealogies of Haitians living in
the province. At that time, they estimated that some 45,000 descendants of Haitians and
another 4,000 native Haitians were living throughout the province
Today, there are over 40 groups around the country that promote Creole culture, such as
the fabulous choral group, "Desandann", which sings
traditional Creole songs with a delicacy, harmony and passion that is gripping. Based in
Camaguey and recently returned from a tour in New York, "Desandann" members are
all descendants of Haitians.
An annual carnival, begun by Haitians and immigrants from Barbados who arrived in Cuba
during the nineteenth century, still takes place. Cuba also participates in international
festivals dedicated to Haitian culture - in July '94, such a festival was held in Santiago
de Cuba.
HISTORY OF CREOLE IN CUBA
The richness of Creole as a language comes from three continents: Africa, America and
Europe. It is a mixture of Spanish, French and English. Although its history has been
little studied, some think it initially developed as a commercial language between
Europeans and the indigenous peoples and slaves brought from the Antilles and the Indian
Ocean.
Creole language and culture first entered Cuba with the arrival of Haitian immigrants
at the start of the nineteenth century. Haiti was a French colony, and the final years of
the 1791-1804 Haitian Revolution brought a wave of French settlers fleeing with their
Haitian slaves to Cuba. They came mainly to the east, and especially Guantanamo, where the
French later introduced sugar cultivation, constructed sugar refineries and developed
coffee plantations. By 1804, some 30,000 French were living in Baracoa and Maisi, the
furthest eastern municipalities of the province.
Later, Haitians continued to come to Cuba to work as brazeros (hand workers, from the
Spanish word brazo, meaning "arm") in the fields cutting cane. Their living and
working conditions were not much better than slavery. Although they planned to return to
Haiti, most stayed on in Cuba.
For years, many Haitians and their descendants in Cuba did not identify themselves as
such or speak Creole. In the eastern part of the island, many Haitians suffered
discrimination. But since1959, this discrimination has stopped.
After Spanish, Creole is the second most-spoken language in Cuba. Over 400,000 Cubans
either speak it fluently, understand it but speak with difficulty, or have at least some
familiarity with the language. It is mainly in those communities where Haitians and their
descendant live that Creole is most spoken. In addition to the eastern provinces, there
are also communities in Ciego de Avila and Camaguey provinces where the population still
maintains Creole, their mother tongue. Classes in Creole are offered in Guantanamo,
Matanzas and the City of Havana. There is a Creole-language radio program.
PROMOTING CREOLE CULTURE IN CUBA
In February '91, the Association of Haitian Residents and Descendants was formed as a
non-governmental socio-cultural organization in Cuba. Its objectives are to unite the
Cuban-Haitian community and to recover their traditions, customs and culture. Formed
initially as a national organization, provincial affiliate quickly appeared in Camaguey,
Santiago de Cuba, Ciego de Avila and Guantanamo, as well as municipal associations in
various locations.
In April '98, Bannzil Kreyol Kiba was officially founded as a cultural institution
under the sponsorship of the Caribbean Association of Cuba. Plans are already underway to
establish provincial affiliates in Cienfuegos - which has an active Creole theatre group -
and Guantanamo. Members include Cubans, Haitians and students in Cuba from Creole-speaking
countries. They pay a monthly fee of five pesos.
"The aim of Bannzil Kreyol Kiba is to rediscover and preserve Creole culture in
Cuba," explains Hilario Batista Feliz, president of Bannzil. "We want to study
and promote Creole culture and language as part of Cuba's national cultural
patrimony."
This year's program of activities for Bannzil is ambitious. It includes seminars,
courses, competitions, monthly "Creole Afternoons" full of cultural and
educational activities, and much more. At the municipal level, many of these activities
are done in collaboration with "Poder Popular" (local government structures) and
Cultural Centres. The "Kiba Kreyol" musical group, consisting of twelve singers
and drummers, has already been formed as part of Bannzil.
Other plans include organizing the "Kiba Kreyol 98" International Festival
later this year, creating affiliated groups of Bannzil in other provinces, celebrating
"International Day of Creole"(1) around the country, and assisting all groups
interested in Creole.
In April of this year, the first Creole library in Cuba was inaugurated. Located in the
library of the oldest trades school in the country, the"Fernando Aguado y Rico"
Polytechnic Centre in Central Havana, it will provide a home to some of the substantial
literature written in Creole.
The library "is an example of the struggle of a people to maintain its language
and culture," says Alberto Mendez, deputy director of the National Commission of
UNESCO in Cuba, who spoke at the inauguration.
In eastern Cuba, the Association of "Tumba Francesa" (tumba is drum) is
another example of the vitality of Creole culture. Located in La Loma de Chivo (Goat
Hillock), a part of Guantanamo City with a concentrated presence of Haitian descendants as
well as descendants from English-speaking Caribbean islands, Tumba Francesa is a vibrant
hub of cultural traditions for residents of the area. Here one finds the rumba - that
spontaneous, sensual and playful dance that has its roots in Afro-Cuban culture - as well
as traditional Haitian dances.
"CELEBRATING ROOTS"
Dalia Timitoc is one of the many "faces" of the resurgence and vibrancy of
Creole culture in Cuba. A singer and song writer, she is the daughter of a Haitian father
and Jamaican-descended mother.
"My father was a sugar cane cutter in a sugar central in Monte Verde de Yateras
(Guantanamo province)," says Dalia. "In my songs, I am searching for and
celebrating roots."
"I'm fanatic about the Caribbean," continues Dalia, "and I sing a bit in
Creole."
In addition to singing old Haitian songs, Dalia also sings about nature, women as the
saviours of the earth, indigenous Indian peoples, etc. When she sings, she accompanies
herself on a special drum which she calls Oluboku ("drum of peace"). Abouta
meter long, it hangs around her neck by a strap and tapers down to a point, much like a
cone, encircled with several rings of small bells.
"I've had this drum for eighteen years, explains Dalia, "and I'm not sure if
it has African or Haitian roots. I'm investigating this."
Growing up in Holguin, Dalia began singing at twelve years of age. She has written
books, been in movies, holds a monthly song gathering in her home including a children's
choir, and is conducting a research project called "Que no Muera las Raizes" (So
that the Roots Don't Die) which involves a compilation of short songs going back to
African and Spanish origins.
So that the roots don't die - whether African, Caribbean, European or a rich mixture of
all. And at the end of the day, the blend is distinctly Cuban.
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(1) Today, eight million people speak Creole worldwide. Because of the importance of
this language, in 1979 the 28th of October was declared "International Day of
Creole". It is celebrated in all Creole-speaking countries with festivals, workshops,
competitions, seminars and cultural activities. |